The Rolex Submariner ref. 1680, particularly the highly sought-after iterations boasting a red "Meters First" marking on their dials, represents a pinnacle of vintage watch collecting. More than just a timekeeping instrument, these watches are tangible pieces of horological history, embodying the spirit of adventure and precision that defines the Rolex brand. This article will delve deep into the fascinating world of the Rolex 1680 "Red," exploring its technical specifications, historical context, variations, pricing, and the factors that contribute to its immense desirability among collectors.
Powering the Legend: Calibre 1575
At the heart of every Rolex "Red" Submariner ref. 1680 beats the calibre 1575, a robust and reliable automatic movement. This movement is a significant evolution from its predecessor, the calibre 1570, distinguished by the addition of a date function – a highly desirable feature for divers and everyday wearers alike. The 1570, a time-only movement, was a workhorse in its own right, but the 1575 enhanced its functionality without compromising its legendary durability. Both movements are known for their robustness and accuracy, capable of withstanding the rigors of underwater exploration and daily life. The 1575, with its 26 jewels, offers a power reserve of approximately 48 hours, a testament to Rolex's commitment to creating timepieces that can be relied upon in even the most challenging circumstances. Its self-winding mechanism, powered by the natural movement of the wearer's wrist, ensures consistent operation without the need for manual winding. The meticulous finishing and attention to detail evident in the 1575 are characteristic of Rolex's commitment to quality, making it a highly sought-after movement among watch enthusiasts and collectors.
The Allure of the "Red" – Dial Variations and Significance
The term "Red Submariner" specifically refers to the variation of the ref. 1680 featuring a red "Meters First" marking on the dial. This detail, seemingly minor, is the key element that sets these watches apart and propels them to the top tier of collectible Rolexes. The placement of the "Meters First" inscription, above the depth rating, is a crucial distinction. Early examples often featured a slightly different font and placement compared to later iterations, adding another layer of complexity to the variations within the "Red" Submariner family. These subtle differences are highly valued by collectors and significantly influence the price.
Beyond the "Red" marking, the ref. 1680 offers a variety of other dial variations, further contributing to its collectible appeal. Different dial colors, including black, gilt, and variations in the shade of the indices and hands, add to the complexity and desirability of these watches. The condition of the dial, particularly its lume (luminescent material), is a critical factor in determining a watch's value. Original, un-touched lume is highly prized, reflecting the watch's age and authenticity. Patina, the natural aging of the dial and hands, is also a significant factor, with some collectors actively seeking out examples exhibiting a desirable level of patina.
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